The
skin is designed to be selectively absorbent, being relatively permeable to fat
soluble substances and relatively impermeable to water and water soluble
substances. Fat soluble ingredients such as oils are absorbed more effectively
and have greater effect on the cell membrane and skin matrix, supporting skin
nourishment. As carriers, oils can also transport essential oils,
phytonutrients, vitamins and minerals into the skin where they are most
effective, rather than just having a "surface" effect. In addition,
oils also help prevent skin dehydration by providing an effective water loss
barrier which in turn leads to plumper, more hydrated skin. Oil absorption is
influenced by the viscosity or thickness of the individual carrier oil with
thicker oils tending to be absorbed more slowly through the skin. Generally
fine light oils are preferable for use on the face as they absorb quickly,
easily penetrating the surface layer of skin without leaving a greasy feel.
Heavier oils are suitable for dry facial skin, skin on the body, as bath oils
and massage oils. The degree of unsaturation will also impact on oil
absorption. In general, the more polyunsaturated fat content of the oil, the
better the absorption. For example Rose Hip oil is high in polyunsaturates and
has quite low viscosity, making it ideal for use in face serums and creams as
it absorbs quickly into the skin.
It is worth noting that cold-pressed oils
tend to have a Dermaclear greater degree of unsaturated than heat-extracted oils and for
this reason are preferable. The process of cold-pressing involves the nut or
seed being placed in an "expeller" which squeezes the oil out. There
is some heat created by friction however, it causes little damage to the oil or
its constituents. Heat-extraction uses temperatures up to 200 degrees Celsius
which dramatically increases the yield of oil, making it far more cost
effective but at the same time damaging the nutrient content of the oil.
Unsaturated fatty acids are easily damaged by high temperatures and so
heat-extracted oils will have significantly lower levels. While these oils are
commonly used as cooking oils, they should be avoided for use in skin care and
aromatherapy as they lack the therapeutic benefits of the cold-pressed
versions. A common misconception when it comes to the use of oils is that
applying them to the skin will only worsen oily skin and further create
congestion. Heavier oils may sit on the surface of the skin longer before
absorption, which is not ideal for already oily skin. However, the lighter,
less viscous oils will be absorbed quite quickly and in many cases help to
balance skin oiliness rather than contribute to it. Oils are effectively
absorbed into the skin rather than sitting on the surface layer and therefore
they are unlikely to cause or worsen congestion. However, many natural skin
care products rely on waxes and butters as base ingredients. While enormously
beneficial for the skin, they are more likely to sit on the surface and
therefore have a greater likelihood of contributing if congestion is already an
issue.
They are unlikely to cause congestion that wasn't previously present and
the skin response really does depend on individual skin type. The percentage of
waxes to butters to oils will vary in different products for different skin
types. If you are unsure about what product to use for your skin type, it is
worth asking the manufacturer or supplier which of their particular products
will be most beneficial for your skin type. There a quite a number of
nourishing carrier oils used in both skin moisturizers and serums and the range
of natural products available that using nutritional base oils is ever
increasing. Different oils are suitable for different skin types so knowing
some basic facts about base oils will help you find the most suitable product
for your skin. Sweet Almond Oil - A common used oil in skin care, it is rich in
nutrition including vitamin E, unsaturated fats and essential fatty acids. It
has a softening action on the skin and is useful for lubrication in massage
because while not a heavy oil, it is not absorbed rapidly. Olive Oil - A
heavier oil, rich in monounsaturates including oleic acid. Extra virgin olive
oil come from the first pressing of the olives and is dark green in color
indicating the presence of antioxidant polyphenol. It is suitable for use with
dry skin as it helps stabilize the cell membrane increasing the skins ability
to hold onto moisture. Olive oil also contains squalene, a hydrating and
anti-inflammatory agent, ideal for skin conditions such as psoriasis and
eczema. Tamanu Oil - Tamanu oil has powerful healing properties in its unique
ability to promote the formation of new skin tissue.
Traditionally used by the
Polynesians as first aid for the skin and mucous membranes, the oil can assist
with scars, burns, skin cracks, cuts, dry skin and wounds. Used cosmetically,
Tamanu has healing, mild antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity 2. For these
reasons it is used in both protective and regenerative products aimed at
restoring skin appearance. Evening Primrose Oil - Evening Primrose Oil (EPO) is
a valuable source of gamma linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid with potent
anti-inflammatory effects. Useful for dry, damaged, sensitive skin EPO helps to
maintain the skin's normal barrier functions. It is also useful topically for
eczema and psoriasis. Rosehip Oil - With up to 80% essential fatty acid
content, Rosehip oil is very fine and quite easily absorbed by the skin.
Rosehip encourages regeneration and repair of the skin and is renowned for its
skin benefits, particularly in the treatment of scars and burns. It is also
known for its rehydrating effect as well as improving dry, aged and wrinkled
skin. Jojoba Oil - Actually a fine wax rather than an oil, Jojoba oil is very
fine in consistency and readily absorbed by the skin. It is light and
non-greasy and for this reason it is ideal in face serums and creams. Jojoba
closely resembles the sebum of the skin and so is beneficial for skin and scalp
problems such as psoriasis and eczema. With excellent emollient properties it
is moisturizing, healing and suitable for all skin types. Coconut Oil - One of
the heaviest and most stable oils, coconut is ideal for hair and body
application. With moisturizing and softening properties it is ideal for dry and
rough skin.
Coconut oil also has cooling properties and so is useful for after
sun care products 1. Avocado Oil - Strong in color and dour, avocado oil is not
to everyone's liking for skin care. However, in its unrefined form it is rich
in lecithin, vitamin D, E and A which offer useful sun protection and skin
nutrition. Avocado oil is beneficial to drier skins. Sea Buckthorn Oil - Bright
orange in color, Sea Buckthorn oil is rich in beta carotene and second only to
Rose Hip in vitamin C content. It is also very rich in essential fatty acids.
This rich combination of nutrients mean it is extremely beneficial as a base
oil in skin care. With moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and restorative
properties, it is easily absorbed and useful for all skin types. Some people
are blessed with normal, well-balanced skin whilst others may have varying
problems, such as dryness, irritation, combination skin, acne prone skin or an
oily skin condition. Heredity can play a role in oily skin and if your mother
or father had it you may well have also have it. Production of oil in the skin
is stimulated by hormone production and anything that causes fluctuation in the
hormones can cause skin to become excessively oily. For women, hormonal changes
occur not only during puberty but at the beginning of each menstrual cycle,
during pregnancies and also during menopause. If a woman is taking a birth
control pill this can also affect the skin badly and contribute to an oily skin
problem.
Emotional and physical situations can also cause the skin to react
badly and make hormones go into overdrive, which can exacerbate an oily skin
condition. Oil in the skin (known as sebum) is produced by the sebaceous glands
which are located within the second layer (or dermis) of the skin. These glands
are most plentiful in the face, neck, chest, head and back, and are one reason
for these areas being affected by excessive oil production more than in any
other area of the body. In order to reach your skin from the glands, the oils
flow into nearby follicular pores and work their way to the skin's surface.
This oil then plays an essential role in the health of skin and hair.
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